Get honest about how you’ll use the yacht
- Define your use:
Coastal weekends, longer passages, Med seasons, occasional charter, or mostly marina‑based socialising? - Decide your style:
Motor yacht, flybridge, hard‑top, sportscruiser, explorer, sailing yacht, catamaran—each suits a different rhythm of life. - Crew or owner‑operated:
Above roughly 60–70 ft, full or part‑time crew becomes a serious consideration.
Build a realistic total budget
- Purchase price:
New build, stock boat, or dealer demo. - Running costs:
Mooring, insurance, fuel, maintenance, lift‑outs, winterising, upgrades. - One‑off extras:
Tender, toys, electronics, safety gear, custom options.
A good rule of thumb: plan for 8–12% of the yacht’s value per year in running costs, depending on size and usage.
Choose the right size and layout
- Length vs lifestyle:
Bigger gives space and presence, but also higher costs, draft, and handling demands. - Cabins and berths:
How many people will regularly sleep aboard? Separate guest/children cabins? Crew cabin? - Deck and social spaces:
Cockpit, bow lounging, flybridge or hard‑top, bathing platform, galley‑up vs galley‑down.
Think in scenarios: a wet, windy April weekend vs a packed August bank holiday with friends.
New vs nearly‑new vs used
- New yacht:
Pros: Full warranty, latest tech, you choose spec and colours.
Cons: Highest price, build lead times, early‑years depreciation. - Nearly‑new / demo:
Pros: Modern spec, some warranty, faster delivery, better value.
Cons: Limited choice of layout/colour, some early wear. - Used:
Pros: Best value, lots of choice, slower depreciation.
Cons: More risk, survey findings, refit costs, older tech.
Decide whether to use a broker or go direct
Good broker value:
- Shortlists suitable yachts and brands
- Manages viewings, offers, contracts
- Coordinates survey, sea trial, and paperwork
- Knows realistic market prices and common pitfalls
Direct from dealer/yard:
- Often best for new boats—clear pricing, factory options, and brand support.
If someone is new to the game, a reputable broker or dealer is almost always worth it.
Shortlist and compare yachts properly
Key points:
- Length, beam, draft
- Engines and performance
- Fuel and water capacity
- Cabins/berths and heads
- Builder reputation and resale history
Then compare feel, not just numbers: helm ergonomics, visibility, noise levels, storage, and how the boat moves through the water.
Viewings, survey, and sea trial
First viewing:
Check overall condition, build quality, ergonomics, and whether the layout really works for you.
Professional survey (even on “new”):
- Hull and structure
- Engines and systems
- Moisture readings, fittings, safety gear
Sea trial:
- Acceleration and cruising comfort
- Noise and vibration
- Handling at low speed and in turns
- Visibility from the helm with people seated/standing
If anything feels wrong at the helm, believe that feeling—you’ll live with it for years.
Negotiation, contract, and payment
- Agree the spec in writing:
Options, colours, electronics, delivery date, commissioning, training. - Use a proper contract:
Clear terms, survey/sea‑trial contingencies, and what happens if defects are found. - Secure payments:
Use client accounts / escrow, not direct transfers to individuals.
On new builds, clarify stage payments and what’s due at each milestone.
Handover, training, and after‑sales
- Thorough handover:
Systems walk‑through, manuals, service schedules, warranty terms. - On‑water training:
Berthing, close‑quarters handling, anchoring, basic troubleshooting. - After‑sales support:
Who do you call when something fails on a Friday in August?
A good dealer or yard will feel like a long‑term partner, not just a salesperson.
Sanity checks before you sign
Before you commit, ask yourself:
- Can I comfortably afford to run this yacht for 3–5 years?
- Does this layout really fit how I’ll use it most of the time?
- If I needed to sell in 2–3 years, would this be an attractive spec and brand?
